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How to make your own Shinsengumi Haori
MyAnimeList.net Forum »» Club Discussion »» Hakuouki Heart of the Sword »» How to make your own Shinsengumi Haori

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#1
11-22-10, 10:07 AM

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Posts: 457



What you will need:

Fabric:

  • Sky Blue - Poly-Cotton - 60" Wide by 2 Meters long
  • White - Polly-cotton - 1 meter square


  • Sky Blue (matching) Polly-cotton Thread (as your fabric store when you buy the fabric for the matching thread)
  • White- Poly-cotton Thread
  • 2 x 2 Meters - cotton cord for the Haouris Himo (the cord that ties over the chest)
  • Hemming Webtape
  • Pole (to hang your haouri on)
  • Scissors
  • Sewing Machine (you can do this project by hand, but it'll take you longer)
  • Tape Meassure
  • Pins
  • Talor chalk - in White & Blue
  • Iron
  • Referance image
    (if you want to talor your haouri to your fave shinsengumi member)


~#~

"Getting Started"
If you have acsess to a big-table to work on, it'll help a lot, becuase you'll be able to see all of your fabric, but if you dont, dont worry, just remember to take longer to re-check everything before you start cutting and you'll be ok.


First

Lay out your blue fabric - It should be 60" wide and 2M long

2m, is how long the entire garment will be (inc hems)
(this is the standard size for a shinsengumi haori, give or take a few inches depending on your fave shinsengumi-guys height is, however just under 2m is the adverage)


once you've laid it out.
you want to start making your patturn



Use your white-chalk to mark, 2-equal - 14" wide lengths
(that run from top to bottom of the fabric, as shown in the image above)
these will be your right and left "body" parts

Iron the lines and then cut the strips out.
however, make sure your strips are stirght and equal before cutting!

Once you've cut them out, mark them Left and right and put them aside for now.

next
Cut out a 4" wide strip
this will be your Collar (put this aside, as you wont need this untill the very end)

with the fabric that is left.
fold in half/Iron as shown and cut.

you'll end up with 2-equal rectangles in size.
(depending on your arm length and how long a drop you wish to have on your sleeve, you may choose-which way the rectangles hang,
but i shall make this clearer later)

But these rectangles will be your sleeves.
mark them left and right and there, your pattern is now complete becuase you have all the parts to make your haouri.



~Part Two~


Now you have you sections.
You have to Iron your "body" strips in half to make a shoulder "seam"
this is just a visual guide and its important that its kept ironed at all times, as it'll help you a lot later on to get everything level.

With them ironed in half, you should be able to hang them on your pole (or wire, if you don’t have a pole at hand)

Drape the fabric over your pole (or wire)
to have them in position for later.


"Next"

Its time for your sleeves.
Before you iron the shoulder sea into them (to match the one you ironed into your body-parts; drape one of the rectangles over your arm.

Your haori should reach "just over" your wrist (in length)
and the "drop" should be a few inches below the "underarm" seam, but its down to personal preference

When yove've chosen which way to have your rectangles to drape; iron them in half like so:



Then hang them on your pole- just like your Body-parts (the shoulder seam should match the one on your body parts, they should all hang level at the bottoms)

thus, you should end up with the image below, which is the first part complete of forming your haori.





~Part Three~

its time to sew your Shoulder-sections to your body parts :3

for now, treat "left" and "right" seperatly,
so as they hang on your pole, make sure you write "left" "right" on each side (if you havent already)


Start with your "Left" side.
you want to "fold back" your body-part over the shoulder part, so that the "body-part" hangs over the shoulder as so:



Now they should be hanging on your pole as shown.
you need to now measure (from the top) "25 centemters" down and mark with a pin.

this will be the seam that will Join the two-parts and also show you your "drop" that you'll have (as shown)



(Do not cut any fabric, even if you've ended up with a huge drop!)


With "scrap" cotton (cotton that you dont mind wasting)
Tack-stich (without any knots) all the way around your "end" area to keep your parts together when sewing. (this thread will be pulled out later, so dont worry about neatness)

remember"
when tacking,
only take the garment off the pole when you've tacked one-side, otherwise you'll lose your level.

once you've tacked one side, "then" take it off the poll and tack the other side.

when your done, (with the farbc spread out) you should get the following image



Now you've tacked one side.
its time to sew it for real (either by hand or) by Machine (as its so much quicker)

sew only where you have "tacked" 25cms.
then drape the garment back on the pole (once sew together)
and remove the tacking-thread

you should get the following image now
(when the farbic is the right way around (not inside out)



there, you have one arm done

do all the same steps (that you did with your left side)
again with your "right side"
and hang them both back on the pole when finished

You now have "Part 3" done


~#~

~PART FOURr~
Now you have both of your "arm seams" sewed,
its time to sew up the rest of the side-parts inorder to close the fabric completely

(Even now, treat both "left & right" parts seperate)

When "tack" stiching & Sewing for real, always turn your fabric inside-out. so your working on the inside of the garment.


The image above is "inside-out view of your left half"

repeat the step above on your "right" side and re-hang (Iron if you need to "re-instate the shoulder-crease and to iron out your seams if they look puffy)


~#~

~PART FIVE~

its time to hem your sleeve (drop and underarm-hem where it will connect to the "body" seam)











This topic is under a lot of construction at the mo :3
demo give me a few days ^.^V
Modified by -GundamCrazy-, 12-04-10, 7:58 AM

"scary thing is oni instinct''
 
#2
11-27-10, 6:56 AM

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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 457
Kya my toshi ver Haouris done >xD



Just need to Iron it ^o^V

"scary thing is oni instinct''
 
#3
12-02-10, 1:16 AM

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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 73
OMG,, it looks awesome!!! <3
I can't wait to try it out...but I just remember that I suck at sewing...=.=

Btw, what is the string for?
 
#4
12-02-10, 6:31 AM

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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 457
Arigatou ^.^V i love it so much ;^;V

but the string is the "himo" cord that they have crossing their chests (as its hung on the wall though, its hard to show it)

its shown better on this pic i found.


but you dont have to be great at sewing ^^V
its just if you have a sewing-machine its 10x quicker o.oV

but it should only take a few extra days to do it by hand :3
you dont have to be great at sewing in a stright line either.
you just have to make your fabric is "cut" stright and if it is, then its easy ^.^V

"scary thing is oni instinct''
 
#5
12-02-10, 7:17 PM

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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 73
I've never used a sewing machine.... O_O But this would be a great reason to try it out. xD

I know there's this "himo" there, but what is it used for? To tie up their sleeves? @@
 
#6
12-04-10, 7:15 AM

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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 457
it just Holds the Haorui closed :3
its just shnsengumi wanted it 2meters long to make a statement of status ^.^V

"scary thing is oni instinct''
 
#7
12-07-10, 5:02 AM

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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4271
Plan to get one of these when I finally go to kyoto.
http://shintai88.deviantart.com/ Just some of my artwork (Total Noob Btw)
 
#8
12-07-10, 2:46 PM

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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 457
aw you should! o.oV roaming around kyoto in a shinsengumi haouri is a must dakara!!!! xD

id love to go to kyoto ;^;V

"scary thing is oni instinct''
 
#9
01-08-11, 9:06 AM

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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
Cool thread. I'm going t try this, and i've been looking for clear instructions on how to make a haori! thankx i think i'm going o try this for my katanagatari cosplay ^^! Plus it looks like it does not take that long!
 
01-10-11, 6:38 AM

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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 457
arigatou Cyber_girl!

i took it slow to make mine and it just took 5 days!
though i had a sewing machine ^^;

if you did it buy hand, id probabaly add another day to that :3

good luck! and if you need any tips, let me know ^^V

"scary thing is oni instinct''
 
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